Bonsai News: May 2005

30 May 2005

My Adventures With Bonsai

This past Christmas season, a local Canadian retail store was selling miniature upright columnar Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Elwoodii’, or Lawson false cypress. They were so dry and pathetic looking after Christmas that I bought as many of the leftovers that I thought I could save.
Four of the Elwoodii remain in their original 4½ inch plastic pots. These are “pot-bound” meaning that the roots have reached the edge of the inner sides of the pot and are slowly growing in circular swathes around the inner circumference of the pots. While this is definitely not the healthiest of conditions for the trees, until it is figured out exactly what to do with them, or until the weather warms up a bit more, this will have to suffice.
The soil, I suspect, is original from the nursery where they were purchased by the retail store, and seems to be a peat based composite. When I first purchased the trees there was some slow release green granulated fertilizer inside the pots, but the effectiveness was redundant because the trees did not receive enough water to cause the granules to break down.
The other two trees have been transplanted into an indoor soil-less potting mix of peat moss, vermiculite and perlite (ratio is 3:3:3) within a circular 2 inch deep by 12 inch diameter ceramic dish. The dish has no drainage holes. The ceramic is not glazed inside which allows for some greater water retention, thus, I am careful when applying water.
The Elwoodii are all approximately 14 inches tall (from soil line to tips) and about 2 inches in diameter (of the foliage). They are relatively young trees. I have guessed perhaps yearlings or perhaps two years old, but this is difficult to assess, as they are grown for their slow growth properties.
Depending upon where you retrieve your information, C. lawsoniana ‘Elwoodii’ is claimed to be from the US or Europe. Having searched well over 200 sites on the web, I have chosen to use information from England. If you use the web for your search you will note that many bonsai forums list this tree, as well as, Germanic websites!
This reminds me - if considering joining a particular horticultural web-group, I suggest that you directly contact the administrator of the group. While I was a student of Algonquin College’s Horticultural Technician Program, one second year class (Greenhouse Applied) required that we research and fully document, in log book format, industry practices for certain plants. One of my “crops” was Pelargonium. I eagerly joined a web-group, sent them all sorts of probing questions, and to my terrible dismay received all my replies in Norwegian!
My email inbox is still occasionally bombarded with (I am sure) perfectly pertinent information, but nonetheless it is completely untranslatable…the “free” web-based translation sites are not adequate…believe me, I know.
According to www.angliangardener.co.uk, the Elwoodii is a good substitute for the Lleylandii (which, having had one of these a few years ago, I hope is very true, as it also had very nice bluish-grey foliage). This site lists the height x spread as 10ft x 6ft. The tree prefers “…full sun or partial shade…moist well-drained neutral to slightly acid soil…removes any competing leaders that appear in spring, cutting out the weaker or crooked shoot cleanly at its base…”
For my purposes, I am using it as a bonsai and trying to imitate a “forest” look. This morning I checked the dryness of the four plastic potted trees. Just like a cake that is baked in your oven, you are sometimes instructed to poke the cake with a fork, and if it comes out smooth and clean, then the center is considered cooked. Well, the same can be said for planting soil.
If you were to push your finger into the soil (at least up until the second knuckle, but I like to go as deep as possible), and felt very little moisture or none at all, then you know that it is time to water your plants. The other method of checking for watering time seems very basic, which is to simply pick up the individual pots and if they feel quite light (almost weightless), then certainly it is time to water.
But for the trees placed in the ceramic dish, I had to go poking about in the soil. Peat moss based soil-less mixtures can be deceiving. Naturally, the soil on the surface will look dry, but remember all that vermiculite and perlite? The water retention capability of these ingredients, plus the ceramic wicking defeats the eye. Besides, if you are worried about getting your fingers dirtied, then you should not be planting, or cooking for that matter.
Watering methods vary. As I do not have a propagation table or a separate sink used solely for plants, I have to use my kitchen sink. What I do for the individual pots is to fill a larger ceramic pot with lukewarm water, plus a few drops of high nitrogen liquid fertilizer (for acidity), and then insert the potted trees (pot and all) into the water, pressing down gently on the rims of the pots until the pot is completely submerged. When you see that there are no more air bubbles rising to the surface, remove the pot from the water, and let drain. Repeat this process as necessary until thoroughly watered.
Some people and I have done this before, especially with older bonsai, and leave the pots soaking in the fertilizer-diluted water for up to a half hour, and then set them aside to drain.
As for the ceramic dish, because I do not want my drain pipes to become clogged with soil debris, I have discovered that if I place two sheets of paper towel over the drain, and then use a smaller plate upside down over the sink’s drain, I can place the ceramic dish on top of this, to form a bit of a pedestal. This process keeps the bottom of the ceramic dish dry, and the paper towel effectively acts like a sieve for your soil debris.
I use the residual water from the plastic pots to water the trees in the ceramic dish. I water the trees until (checking with my fingers) I feel enough moisture in various areas around the roots.
Today, I transplanted a rooted herbaceous cutting of Coleus into the ceramic dish (after I had finished watering the trees). I noted, as well, that one of the trees was developing a secondary leader, and instead of tossing it out, I also used it in the ceramic dish.
I removed about one inch of foliage from the bottom of the cutting, dipped it into water, dipped it into a powdered rooting hormone, and then planted the cutting in the dish. I am hopeful that this secondary leader cutting will form my third Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Elwoodii’, thereby satisfying my own peculiar desire for the asymmetrical.
You might have noticed that I have not mentioned anything about anchoring my trees with wire. I know that proper bonsai techniques call for this; however, if my trees tend to tip a little, then I consider it more natural looking. As long as the surrounding soil is kept moist, the trees should remain in the ceramic dish. And when it comes time to prune and tease the roots, then I will splay the roots outward beneath the soil, creating a naturally-occurring anchor system.
I am supposed to be nipping back the new growth at the top of the trees but I am opting to let them grow for a little while longer. They have only recently been transplanted from their plastic pots, and I am reluctant to create greater stress. I will keep you posted on their progress!

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29 May 2005

Bonsai Trees Draw Fans To Washington

The Goshin Bonsai was begun in 1953 by John Naka.
The Goshin Bonsai was begun in 1953
by John Naka; he is the center of an
exhibit at the Washington Arboretum.


The fifth World Bonsai Convention is taking place this weekend at the Washington Hilton, and convention organizers say it's the biggest bonsai event ever. Enthusiasts are gathering to display the plants they have pruned, bound and trained into twisted, complex forms.
The event included both showcases and workshops, as the practitioners of a very patient art exchanged secrets and tips. Bonsai creators say a good plant can take a lifetime -- or several. One famous bonsai at the National Arboretum was first potted in 1626.

Fay Sharer took part in a workshop on pruning and training bonsai.
Fay Sharer took part in a workshop on
pruning and training bonsai,
working on a California pine.


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27 May 2005

Arboretum Hosts 5th World Bonsai Convention

Bonsai California juniper. Link to photo information
This California juniper (Juniperus californica)
by Harry Hirao is part of the bonsai collection
at the National Bonsai and Penjing Museum.


The U.S. National Arboretum (USNA) has scheduled a special evening banquet and tour of its bonsai museum on May 29 as part of the 5th World Bonsai Convention being held in the nation's capital this weekend.
"The convention gives participants a rare opportunity to see many of the world's foremost bonsai and penjing masters demonstrate their expert techniques," said Thomas Elias, director of the arboretum. "We're honored to be co-sponsoring the event and to share our collections with bonsai lovers from around the world."
The arboretum is operated by the Agricultural Research Service, a U.S. Department of Agriculture scientific research agency. In conjunction with the convention, held every four years in a different country, the arboretum will showcase both its permanent bonsai display and several special exhibits.
The convention will feature demonstrations, workshops and informative lectures. Exhibits of outstanding bonsai and penjing specimens, viewing stones and pots will be featured throughout the convention, and vendors will display and sell bonsai-related items. The convention will be held at the Washington Hilton Hotel and is open to the public. People can register for the full convention or a single day. There is a fee of $10 to view the exhibits.
The event will be hosted by the North American Bonsai Federation and sponsored by the American Bonsai Society, Bonsai Clubs International, National Bonsai Foundation, Potomac Bonsai Association and the arboretum.
Opening ceremonies will feature a tribute to Saburo Kato and John Naka, founding fathers of the World Bonsai Friendship Federation. Founded in 1989, the federation was created to promote world peace and friendship through bonsai and its allied arts. Former U.S. Ambassador to Japan Thomas Foley and current Japanese Ambassador to the United States Ryozo Kato are honorary co-chairs for the convention.
The arboretum is home to the National Bonsai and Penjing Museum, the largest and most comprehensive museum of its kind in the world that allows the general public to learn about and enjoy these interesting living art forms, free of charge. More information about the USNA, bonsai museum, including a virtual tour of museum, and the convention can be found at http://www.usna.usda.gov.


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GARDENING Q&A: Bonsai Probably Faltered In Dry Air Indoors

Q. I have a question about a bonsai plant. I purchased a Golden Gate fig in October. For most of the early winter it was doing quite well. I kept it indoors, watered it as needed and it had filtered sunlight. However, in late January all of the leaves started falling off. Now I simply have a tree with very few limbs and absolutely no leaves. Is my tree a goner? I've tried the limbs and they still seem to be flexible. What should I do to get more growth or should I give up on this one and try another?

A. On our March PBS show, "Virginia Home Grown," one of our guests was Jim Ford, former president of the Richmond Bonsai Society. He received a question very similar to yours during the show. It sounds like your Golden Gate fig didn't quite acclimate to the indoor environment. It could be that the atmosphere in your house, like most, was too dry.

You can move it outdoors now and remove the terminal buds on the end of each healthy stem. Give it a dose of slow-release fertilizer and if it's not too far gone, it should produce new growth. If it's not better in 30 days, think about replacing it.
By the way, Jim keeps his bonsai plants outdoors in winter in a plastic-covered greenhouse. This protects them from severe weather while allowing them to go dormant naturally.
You may want to keep yours in an unheated portion of the house and let it go dormant instead of trying to keep it growing in winter.

Q. I bought an evergreen amaryllis from a local greenhouse and it has not bloomed. They told me it probably wouldn't the first year, so this being the second season, I was really looking forward to a bloom. I placed it outside in part shade last summer and fertilized it in the fall with liquid fertilizer. Any ideas about why this amaryllis hasn't bloomed?

A. Even the evergreen amaryllis needs to go through a cool dormant period to bloom again. Here are the steps that may help for next year. In September, take it indoors and stop watering it. Put it in a cool (55-60 degrees), dry place for 10 to 12 weeks. After 12 weeks (late November/early December), remove the bulb from its original pot and repot it in fresh soil. Leave the shoulders of the bulb (the upper one-third) exposed.

Put the plant in a warm (70-75 degrees) site and start watering as needed. It should bloom in about eight weeks.

Q. When we bought our house seven years ago, we had some trees on one side called red tips. They grew very well for three to four years, providing a natural fence. However, over the past two years or so, they seem to have gotten sick. We see very few leaves and they don't provide a cover anymore. Do you know what might have happened?

A. Photinia, or red tips, have a serious fungus problem called Entomosporium leaf spot. The leaves become infected with black and purple spots, then fall off. This is an increasing problem in Virginia. In fact, many garden centers have stopped selling them.

You can prune them hard to stimulate new growth, then spray with fungicide. Most experts agree you have to treat them three times at two-week intervals. Be sure to get up all the old leaves, because the spores on them will re-infest the plant.
Unfortunately, once this fungus hits, it's hard to control. If you're not happy with the way your red tips look, you may want to replace them with something like bayberry (wax myrtle). You get the same natural fence without the disease.

Richard Nunnally's column appears each Saturday in the Home & Garden section. Send questions in care of the Flair Department, Richmond Times-Dispatch, P.O. Box 85333, Richmond, VA 23293.

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25 May 2005

Green Stuff West Bay

Bonsai and Suiseki Display Garden Fifty bonsai trees and suiseki viewing stones on permanent display. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. today-Fri., 10 a.m.-3:45 p. m. Sat., noon-3:45 p.m. Sun. Bellevue Ave., Lakeside Park, Oakland. (510) 763- 8409.


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Garden Calendar

CLASSES

JUNE 4 Bonsai Northwest: 5021 S. 144th St., Tukwila; 206-242-8244.

June 4, 1:30-3:30 p.m. -- Re-styling Workshop: Get that wild and woolly bonsai back into shape and keep it that way. Workshop covers both pruning and wiring. $20; tools can be provided.


PLANT SALES

TODAY-TUES Soos Creek Gardens: After 25 years of business Soos Creek Gardens is closing. All water plants, trees, shrubs and perennials are priced to sell as well as bamboo stalks, bonsai pots and large decorative containers. There's also a dig-it-yourself area featuring bamboo and water plants (bring a shovel). Through May 31, 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Wednesdays-Sundays; 12602 S.E. Petrovitsky Road, Renton; 425-226-9308.

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23 May 2005

This Is NOT A Bonsai...

For the next two weeks, I have passed the pen (or, in actual fact, the keyboard) onto my foreman and friend Randy Mason, who will be sharing with you his passion; the fine art of mutilating perfectly healthy and happy plants, more commonly known as “Bonsai” (oops, I may have just lost a friend and foreman…).
I am – of course – just kidding; there are millions of people who enjoy Bonsai and as this is not my field of expertise, I am more than happy to let Randy fill you in on all you need to know. I will be back in a couple of weeks to show you what you can do in your garden to help you achieve “The One Tonne Challenge”.

Until then, happy Bonsai!

René Trim

***

I am above all, not an expert in Bonsai. I dabble. And I enjoy what I have created in my dabbling. I am still experimenting, and learning. But I am willing to share with you what I have learned, even my dismal failures…

“This is NOT a bonsai…”

…and the maker of the statement was correct. But then, again, what is a bonsai? Bonsai is a form of manipulation of a specific plant (usually a deciduous or coniferous tree). The manipulator is human, as opposed to the manipulation by the elements on similar trees found naturally, in, well…Nature.
Bonsai originated in China, where they are called Pen-Jing. The Chinese Pen-Jing is meant to reflect a landscape that occurs in Nature, but at a one tenth, one one-hundredth or one one- thousandth scale. Bonsai is the Japanese take on this art form, and almost literally means “plant in a tray”. The goal of Bonsai is to reflect, as closely as possible, what might be found in Nature.
What I have done, however, is a little different, in that I have taken a cutting of an Abutilon x hybrida (Flowering Maple) and placed it in a shallow pocket of a lava rock.
I cannot do the traditional removal of the tree from the pot every second year or so, because to do so would cause irreparable harm to the root system. The root system has anchored itself to the crevices of the lava rock. This kind of tearing, I believe, would severely damage, if not kill, the Abutilon. I have to content myself with the manipulation of the leaves, and branches.
Originally, there were two Chinese Junipers (Juniperus chinensis) growing out of either side of the lava rock’s pockets. I, in my ignorance, killed them. I watered too often, did not provide them with the sun exposure that they required, and basically was negligent in my care of these plants. It is a common enough mistake to over-water. I have since learned to water when the plants tell me that they need watering. No, I do not hear voices from the plants, but use a common greenhouse technique called Wilting Point, which is much easier to ascertain with deciduous plants. There is another technique for conifers or any other plant, and that is simply by touch (greater discussion in future columns).
When the rock was given to me, my first thought was that it resembled a mountain. The lava rock itself, is approximately 12” tall, and at the base is 9” wide tapering to 4”. It is uniformly grey in colour. I am still experimenting with trays that hold the lava rock. At present, the most aesthetically pleasing tray is a shallow circular grey dish, but I am forever on the lookout for an oval or oblong tray. The lava rock sits nicely within the dish, but I have yet to find suitable filler for the bottom of the tray. I have tried aquarium grade sand, which has a nice texture, but unfortunately repels water, causing a hideous and messy pooling effect in the tray.
The Abutilon is now 9” inches tall, with two main branches that rise above the main trunk. These are peppered with leaves that I regularly nip away. The basic rule of thumb is nip away no more than 40% of the leaves. This will allow for further development of new leaves, and will not harm the essential photosynthesis process that all plants require to survive. I judge which leaves are nipped by their proportions to the rest of the plant, and the overall proportion to the “view” that I am trying to create. You are saying to yourself, how be this different from traditional bonsai? Well, the other plant that is sharing attention in the lava rock is a Coleus cutting. This is definitely not traditional bonsai.
The Coleus cutting is doing rather particularly well in this setting. And it rivals in both form and beauty the Abutilon. It also adds colour to the setting. This was a risky effort as I had not, prior to this experiment, used herbaceous cuttings in a bonsai format. Now, a few years later, the Coleus has a marvellous woody trunk that seems to flow from the lava rock in a gracefully upturned swoop, whereas the Abutilon is more tree-like and traditional, with a single main trunk that is erect and tapering.
My next endeavour, besides finding suitable filler for the base, will be to attempt to grow moss on the lava rock. That will require a slow and diligent process of layered “painting” of the moss formula. Why not just plant commercially acquired moss? Well, where would the fun be in that?
In retrospect, the speaker of the statement, “That is not a bonsai...”, was quite correct. In fact, what I have done can be more likened to Pen-Jing. And quite frankly, no matter what it is called, it does not really matter. What is important is that I enjoy whatever I have created, and that it adds colour, form and pleasurable feelings to my home.
Whatever you attempt to do with your “bonsai” or “Pen-Jing” is up to you. What really counts is that you derive some sort of happiness, knowing that you care for an object that creates a focus in your home, and has the added value of contributing to the oxygen replacement of our environment. In future columns, I will be discussing in greater depth the history of Bonsai and Pen-Jing, as well as, “Wilting Point” and other techniques mentioned, and types of cuttings and styles of Bonsai.

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22 May 2005

Garden Guide

Bonsai demo, display today
Bonsai instruction and demonstrations in conjunction with a Bonsai display are offered by members of the North Sound Bonsai Study Group from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. today, May 22, at Cascade Mall in Burlington. The group, affiliated with the Puget Sound Bonsai Association, meets monthly in Mount Vernon. For more information, call 360-424-3984.

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21 May 2005

Bonsai Trees To Give Spiritual Solace At Ashram

Being a keen nature lover, Ganapathi Sacchidananda Swami of Sri Avadhoota Datta Peetham, Mysore, has a special interest in developing spiritual gardens, with which he likes to enlighten people about the divinity of mother nature.
For the seer, Bonsai is not merely a leisure hobby as he feels that several medically valuable plants can be grown using the bonsai system and their therapeutic benefits utilised without destroying the plants.
With an exquisite collection of bonsai trees from all over the world, the much-awaited ‘Kishkindha Moolika Bonsai Garden’ at the Datta Peetham premises is ready for inauguration.
Spread over one acre of land, there are over 123 carefully shaped and miniaturised trees beautifully displayed along oriental gardens and facilities set against the backdrop of a Chinese garden environment at the foothills of Chamundi.
The garden has some rare varieties of bonsai trees, Wrightia Religiosa, Ficus Microcarpa, Chinese Naple and many others. Some are over 150 years old. Most of the trees have been brought from different countries, including China, Japan, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, West Indies and Canada. More than Rs 20 lakh has been spent on developing the garden.
The seer, who had invited the presspersons to the garden on Saturday, said protection of nature is the need of the hour. Trees are necessary for rains. Destroying trees means destroying mother nature. If a tree is cut to make way for roads or other concrete structures, two tree saplings should be planted to compensate the loss.
He said the bonsai garden has been named as ‘Kishkindha’ as there is a mention of a miniature forest in Ramayana. It is the Kishkindha Vana developed by Dadhimukha. Kishkindha was the name of a mountain.
“I have put in a lot of efforts in developing the garden. So many varieties of bonsai plants in one area is unique. It is one of the exquisite collections in the world,” he adds.
The bonsai garden will be inaugurated at 5 pm on May 23, on the occasion of the 63rd birthday of the seer, by Mr Lee Bock Guan, President, Singapore Buddhist Lodge and a bonsai enthusiast.
Mr V R Nathan, President, Hindu Endowment Board, Singapore will inaugurate the building complex in the garden. Co-operation Minister R V Deshpande and Industries Minister P G R Sindhia will be the chief guests.
Zodiac stones in Rashi Vana will also be opened on the same day at 5:15 pm. The garden will be open for public viewing from 8 am to 12 noon and 4 pm to 7 pm for a nominal entry fee.

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19 May 2005

Garden Calendar

CLASSES

JUNE 4 Bonsai Northwest: 5021 S. 144th St., Tukwila; 206-242-8244.

June 4, 1:30-3:30 p.m. -- Restyling Workshop: Get that wild and woolly bonsai back into shape and keep it that way. Workshop covers both pruning and wiring. $20; tools can be provided.

PLANT SALES

ONGOING Soos Creek Gardens: After 25 years of business Soos Creek Gardens is closing. All water plants, trees, shrubs and perennials are priced to sell as well as bamboo stalks, bonsai pots and large decorative containers. There's also a dig-it-yourself area featuring bamboo and water plants (bring a shovel). Through May 31, 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Wednesdays-Sundays; 12602 S.E. Petrovitsky Road, Renton; 425-226-9308.

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18 May 2005

Wayne's Weekend: Backyard Makeover

I live in a typical Chicago six-flat building. We have a common area between the back of the building and the garages. The area gets limited sun, so grass has never grown well there. Over the years, though, I've done a few things to make the space more comfortable, including building a picnic table, patio, and wall planters. And, I used a lot of pots for flowers and herbs to add some color. But, there was never really a master plan for the space and with summer on the way, this seemed like a perfect time to give the space a real makeover.There were areas of the yard that had no life. Unsightly items like the space under the first floor decks and the dumpster needed to be hidden. Finally, some of the elements I had already created needed to be re-evaluated and either replaced or moved to another location in the yard.

I had a lot of ideas. But, to help me, my friend and master gardener Jeff Hale came over and provided invaluable advice. Jeff is a graduate of the University of Illinois Extension Master Gardener Program and the recipient of many awards and commendations, including the Tribune Glorious Garden Contest winner for Best Small Space Garden. He is an accomplished Bonsai artist, and also grows Orchids in his free time.With Jeff's and my friend Michael Arabshian's help, we were able to do all of the work over a weekend. And, you can too. To give you some help, I've summarized Jeff's ideas into five basic tips for a garden/backyard makeover. I've also provided useful links to specialist who can provide more information.
  1. Plan Ahead
  2. Know what works for your neighbors and your building. How will the spaces be utilized? What kind of traffic will there be?Learn about different types of plants and know which will do well in certain areas based on the amount of sun available. Work with a master plan so that you don't necessarily have to do everything right now. That way, if you set a budget for yourself, you can determine if certain elements can wait until next year.
  3. Break Larger Areas Into Smaller Ones
  4. You can create much for intimacy in your yard by designing "rooms". Using plants as borders can help achieve this. Also, use focal points in each area, like a tree, bush, statuary, etc., to create visual interest. Lastly, work in sets of threes. Using an odd number of elements actually creates more balance to a space.
  5. Use Color And Texture
  6. When working with foliage, flowers, and artwork/statuary, you create greater depth to your space by using a range of colors and texture. Remember that once flowers stop blooming, you still can have a colorful space to enjoy.
  7. Practice Good Plant Care
  8. Water frequently right after replanting your new yard to get plants off to a great start. Take the time to learn about mulching and fertilizing to maintain your garden for the entire season and beyond.
  9. Feel Free To Redesign
  10. Plants that don't do well for 2-3 years can be moved to a new spot. And, large plants can be divided and shared with friends.

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Green Stuff East Bay

Bonsai and Suiseki Display Garden Fifty bonsai trees and suiseki viewing stones on permanent display. 11 a.m.- 3 p.m. today-Fri., 10 a.m.-3:45 p.m. Sat. , noon-3:45 p.m. Sun. Bellevue Ave., Lakeside Park, Oakland. (510) 763-8409.

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15 May 2005

Leave Those Leaves Alone

AT THE GARDEN. Welcome spring at the Chicago Botanic Garden, where all 23 of our gardens and three natural areas are bursting with color. A favorite event for all gardeners is the Midwest Bonsai Society's Spring Show and Sale, May 21-22, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Experts will answer all your questions about this fascinating "art plus science" form of gardening.

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14 May 2005

Garden Offers Taste Of Japanese Culture

5/15/05 The Santa Barbara Botanic Garden and the Bonsai Club of Santa Barbara are co-sponsoring a weekend of bonsai and Japanese cultural activities May 21-22 at the Botanic Garden,1212 Mission Canyon Road, Santa Barbara.

Showcasing an internationally popular horticultural art form, the Club's annual bonsai show and sale runs from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday, and 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday.

A one-hour bonsai demonstration will be held both days, and informal demos 3 to 4 times daily. Other activities include guided tours of the Japanese Tea Garden, an electrifying taiko drumming performance by the Togen Daiko ensemble, a demonstration of Japanese tea ceremony by a veteran tea master, and shakuhachi flute music. The Santa Barbara - Toba Japan Sister Cities Committee will exhibit materials about the sister cities program.

Bonsai, originating in China, and later brought to Japan by Zen Buddhists, is the creative shaping of plant material through specialized techniques to produce miniature trees and landscapes. Plants from any region can be trained into classical shapes. Each tree in the show will be displayed on a stand with a smaller, complementary companion plant nearby. There will also be a formal display alcove called a tokonoma, housing a tree, a companion plant, and a Japanese scroll.

Club members will be selling trained and untrained trees, bonsai pots, and other related items. The botanic garden retail nursery will offer plants suitable for bonsai, and books on bonsai will be stocked in the garden shop. Food will be available for purchase, or visitors may bring their own picnic and enjoy it on the garden terrace.

For more information, call the Botanic Garden at 682-4726 or visit their Web site at www.sbbg.org.

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Book Is A Gardener's Treasure Map

Ruah Donnelly's just-released The Adventurous Gardener: Where to Buy the Best Plants in New York and New Jersey (Horticultural Press, $25.95) is a guide to specialty growers of garden plants, divided by regions. (The section that includes Rochester-area nurseries, "Central and Western New York," also covers Buffalo, Syracuse and Ithaca. )

"Big boxes" need not apply. Donnelly hunts down the little guys: the backyard day lily breeder, the nut tree aficionado, the grower with a passion for orchids, bonsai, herbs, native wildflowers or Japanese maples.

Many of these nurseries are so small that they consist of just one employee, the owner, who often has a full-time job (or two) someplace else or is retired from a first career.

Donnelly's profiles include lots of details on the growers. (Full disclosure: I helped her with some of the research, but I don't profit in any way from the book.)

William Valvanis of the International Bonsai Arboretum in Henrietta, for example, got into bonsai "at age eleven, when his mother dragged him to a bonsai demonstration. ... By age 16, he was lecturing to garden clubs and had opened his own nursery."

No one who has visited GardenScape, Rochester's annual flower and garden show, could possibly have missed his outstanding displays in "Bonsai Alley," which take awards year after year. But how many of his fans know that Bill attracts students from all over the world or that he publishes a full-color, glossy magazine that is distributed in 52 countries?

The Adventurous Gardener also covers growers' current projects and future plans. I've known Ellen Folts, of the native wildflower nursery Amanda's Garden in Springwater, since 1997, but I never knew that she regularly sells native plants to New York City's Central Park until I read it here. Or that Jim Engel, whose White Oak Nursery in Canandaigua specializes in trees and shrubs, wants to change the way people landscape their homes by helping to reduce the cost of native plants, thereby encouraging their use.

At the beginning of each section is a handy map. At the end of each entry is a short paragraph on nearby attractions or another nursery that, while it didn't get a full write-up, is worth a visit. The Adventurous Gardener is like a little treasure map. Not only can you use it to explore the best that our area has to offer, but you'll undoubtedly form a list of must-visit nurseries all across New York and New Jersey.

If you're headed to New England anytime soon, pick up a copy of Donnelly's previous book, 2000's The Adventurous Gardener: Where to Buy the Best Plants in New England.

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Features: Homes

Events

BONSAI SHOW: San Pu Kai Bonsai holds its annual Bonsai Show from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday at the Japanese Cultural Center, 150 Cedar Road, Vista. A display of mature potted bonsai specimens, shown in many traditional styles, will highlight the event. A sales bazaar of bonsai trees and related plant material will be available. Free admission.

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13 May 2005

Classes, Plant Sales, Tours, Volunteering

CLASSES

TODAY Bonsai Northwest: 1:30-3:30 p.m. -- "Introduction to Bonsai." The free lecture/demonstration covers shaping, wiring, watering, care, pest management and more. Please reserve your spot. 5021 S. 144th St., Tukwila; 206-242-8244.

PLANT SALES

ONGOING Soos Creek Gardens: After 25 years of business, Soos Creek Gardens is closing. All water plants, trees, shrubs and perennials are priced to sell as well as bamboo stalks, bonsai pots and large decorative containers. There's also a dig-it-yourself area featuring bamboo and water plants (bring a shovel). Through May 31, 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Wednesdays-Sundays; 12602 S.E. Petrovitsky Road, Renton; 425-226-9308.

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Home & Garden Briefs

Sunday

Bonsai Exhibit: "The Training Process," which features numerous trees and shrubs, including natives, still in training by members of the Tucson Bonsai Society will be on display during the group's monthly meeting. Viewing hours of exhibit are 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Meeting begins at 12:45 p.m.; Tucson Botanical Gardens, 2150 N. Alvernon Way; $5 general; $2.50 ages 6-12. Children 5 and under and members are free; 722-2000.

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12 May 2005

The Garden Calendar

BONSAI VERSUS JAPANESE GARDEN PRUNING: A series of classes in gardening are being held at Hakone Gardens in Saratoga. One in pruning will be held by Randall Lee from 10 a.m to noon Saturday at 21000 Big Basin Way in Saratoga. Registration is $25 and #30 at the door. Parking is free with registration. Cal 408-741-4994.

SANTA CRUZ BONSAI KAI: Meets the third Saturday of the month at 9 a.m. at Live Oak Grange, 1900 17th Ave. Call 761-3531.

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Where Less Is More

There's something about a well-crafted bonsai tree that conjures notions of dwarves, hobbits, and enchanted forests. A product of the ancient Far East, this almost 2,000-year-old hobby grafts the most striking elements of art and gardening, mirroring both the sublime beauty and the rugged hardship of nature.

But mimicking nature is no easy task, and while the trees are trained to look small, the body of knowledge about bonsai gardening is immeasurably vast.

At the Muranaka Nursery in Nipomo, George Muranaka and his father Kanemi have harnessed two generations of experience to create one the best bonsai nurseries in California. But in an apprenticeship where you spend the first three years learning to water and pull weeds, George maintains that he’s still just a beginner.

Kanemi, now in his 70s, moved to the U.S. in 1956. In Japan he had been an artist, but in California he had to find a more practical way to make a living, and like so many immigrants to the Central Coast, he began working in the strawberry fields.

Kanemi quickly demonstrated a knack for horticulture, but he never lost his skill as an artist. And for several years, he studied bonsai gardening under the great Japanese-American master, John Naka, who passed away a year ago this week.


Bonsai Sensei
Kanemi Muranaka, founder of the Muranaka Nursery, has studied the art of bonsai for decades. This handsome maple in the foreground showcases the root-over-rock style, in which a rock is buried under the tree, and over several years, the roots are slowly exposed to reveal the irregular structure.
CHRISTOPHER GARDNER
In 1978 Kanemi opened the nursery. Slowly, like a steadfast bristlecone pine, it grew; and gradually, it flourished. Today the Muranakas attract bonsai enthusiasts from across California and the country. Most of their business comes from L.A., the Bay Area, and the Central Valley, but they also serve customers from Texas, Boston, and New York. And it’s all by word of mouth; their only advertising is a small listing in the local yellow pages.

With about two acres of potted and ground-grown trees, the Muranaka Nursery has an incredible selection of hard to find material. While most people think of small trees in small pots — bonsai literally means “potted tree” — the most robust specimens start out in the ground where they can develop stronger roots and a thicker girth.

Two-thirds of the nursery’s trees are in the ground — mostly black pines, but also junipers, cypress, and maples. Customers peruse the aisles studying the shapes of the young trees, and in late winter they can dig them up and take them home to be potted.

That’s when the real fun begins. By the time the six- to eight-year-old tree is uprooted, it’s usually developed some shape that will lend itself to a particular style of bonsai, like windswept, cascading, formal, and informal upright. But it will take years of pruning and wire training to achieve the stateliness of a genuine bonsai.

Some of Muranaka’s best trees are actually collected from the wild. Common trees like the California juniper can be found in uncommon shapes, and a skillful gardener can train the tree to show its more distinct characteristics. Kanemi has one such juniper, which is about 350 years old, in his private collection.

It’s hard for a bonsai grower to part with a tree of such age and stature. (It’s even harder to find someone to properly care for the tree when you want to go on vacation!)

The age of a bonsai can be one of its most impressive qualities, but as George explained, “It’s not the age of the tree that’s important; it’s the appearance of age.”

There are a number of tricks used to give bonsais thicker bark and other features that suggest old age. But the general rule of respect is to treat the tree like a woman: never ask its age.


Size Matters
Bonsais are typically kept very small, but with careful training they can have all the same proportions of a full-grown tree - as shown in this close up of a miniature juniper grove.
CHRISTOPHER GARDNER
Though the art of bonsai has been around for millennia, it’s still something exotic and mysterious to Westerners, surrounded by misconceptions. One of the biggest myths, according to George, is that bonsais are meant to be grown indoors. With a few minor exceptions, including certain varieties of ficus, that’s just not true. All of Muranaka’s trees grow outdoors, mostly in full sun.

In the beginning, George didn’t take much interest in his father’s business. He had a steady job working retail at a local hardware store. Before or after work he would walk around the property, watering the multitudes of trees.

“To me, it was just a chore,” George said.

But then Kanemi wanted to retire, so George stepped in to lend a hand, and for the last 10 or 12 years he’s basically been running the place.

“He’ll tell you he’s retired,” George says of his father, who speaks very little English. “That just means he works eight hours a day instead of 10.”

As for keeping the business in the family, George is skeptical about his own son ever getting involved. He’s studying graphic design and computer animation at ITT Tech, and George said frankly he’s more interested in video games than gardening.

Those who are interested in learning more about bonsai should contact the Bonsai Club of Santa Maria. The group meets once a month for a three-hour workshop in Nipomo, and membership is just $25 for 6 months.

For more information about the club, the nursery, or bonsai in general, call the Muranaka Nursery at 929-4818.


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11 May 2005

Garden Calendar

CLASSES

SAT Bonsai Northwest: 1:30-3:30 p.m. -- Introduction to Bonsai: The free lecture/demo covers shaping, wiring, watering, care, pest management and more. Please reserve your spot. 5021 S. 144th St., Tukwila; 206-242-8244.

ETC.

SAT-SUN Bonsai Spring Show and Sale: The Puget Sound Bonsai Association hosts its annual show and sale, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. at the Graham Visitors Center at Washington Park Arboretum, 2300 Arboretum Drive E. $3. Information: Tony Fajarillo, 425-432-3643; www.psba.us.

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08 May 2005

Villages Bonsai Club Learns Rafting



Bud Stout, a member of The Villages Bonsai Club,
talks about how he is shaping this ficus bonsai.


A ladybug hitched a ride to Paradise Center on Ray Borntraeger's prematurely aged jade plant.
"Oh, good luck," a smiling Borntraeger said, spying the insect on a succulent green leaf. "We'll just leave it there."
Borntraeger's plant was a mere 2 years old. The bonsai technique, however, had caused the plant - with its gnarled bark-like stalks - to look as though it was hundreds of years old.
"That's what's amazing about it," Borntraeger said. "They age quickly."
Sensing that others at the Friday afternoon meeting of The Villages Bonsai Club would like to have their own miniature jade plants, Borntraeger offered three potted root cuttings to anyone who wanted them.
Borntraeger was welcome to discuss his plant during the show and tell portion of the meeting. But the program for the day focused on the bonsai rafting technique.
As explained by Bud Stout, club president, rafting basically involves cutting away all but a few select branches of a bonsai tree and burying the tree sideways. At that point, remaining branches extend outward and upward from the soil.
"Pretty soon," Stout said, referencing a rafted ficus bonsai owned collectively by the club, "this is going to be a forest."
And the creation of a forest from one plant was the exact purpose of doing rafting.
Stout said he gradually would trim back the original root ball of the tree while the new root system develops. He estimated the original root ball would be eliminated in about two to three years.
Jill Sherman is a reporter with the Daily Sun. She can be contacted at 753-1119, ext. 9253.

 

 

Garden Resource

Classes

Bonsai Classes: 10 a.m. Saturdays; Exotic Bonsai Gardens, 1214 N. Mills Ave., Orlando; free; 407- 897-3352, exoticbonsai garden.com.

 

 

07 May 2005

Garden Calendar

Today and Sunday: "Ancient Art of Bonsai." Bonsai Club members available to answer questions. Includes morning and afternoon demonstrations and an educational table to show the stages of a bonsai creation. Rio Grande Botanic Garden, 2601 Central SW. Admission 13-64 years old, $7; children 12 and younger and seniors 65 and older, $3.

 

 

06 May 2005

Garden Calendar

TODAY & MAY 14 Bonsai Northwest: 5021 S. 144th St., Tukwila; 206-242-8244.

Today and June 4, 1:30-3:30 p.m. -- "Re-styling Workshop." Get that wild and woolly bonsai back into shape and keep it that way. Workshop covers pruning and wiring. $20; tools can be provided.

May 14, 1:30-3:30 p.m. -- "Introduction to Bonsai." The free lecture and demonstration covers shaping, wiring, watering, care and pest management. Please reserve your spot.

 

 

04 May 2005

Vietnamese Garden On Display In Tokyo




Vietnam’s traditional gardens, for the first time, are being shown to the international community at the annual World Gardening Fair hosted by Okura Hotel in Tokyo, Japan from May 1 to 5.

Alongside nine other countries, Vietnam has brought to the event a replica of its traditional gardens with a vault-like gate and lotus pond filled with goldfish. Vietnam’s traditional gardens are designed for visitors to sit with the hosts in a small pavilion to drink tea, play chess and gaze at flowers and the moon.
Various flowers and bonsai usually seen in both rural and urban gardens in Vietnam are also on display.
The fair, which is co-organized by the Japan Bonsai Garden Art Association and embassies of the 10 participating countries, aims to introduce the gardening and cultural life of these countries and enhance mutual understanding and friendship among them.

 

 

Natural Inspiration

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Susan Carr rakes her Japanese Zen garden at her home in Jefferson City. Carr was introduced to Japanese gardens as a child and grows bonsai trees as well.
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Susan Carr created this bonsai tree from a Juniper. Carr is a part of the Mid-Missouri Bonsai Society.

Bonsai Styles
There are five main styles for bonsai:

Formal upright: Grown in the open under perfect conditions. The trunk should be perfectly straight, tapering naturally and evenly from base to apex. Branches should be symmetrically spaced and balanced when viewed from any direction.

Informal upright: In nature, such trees bend or alter their direction away from wind or shade, other trees or buildings or towards light. In an informal upright bonsai, the trunk should slightly bend to the right or left, but never towards the viewer.

Slanting: Trees that slant naturally occur as a result of buffeting winds or deep shade during early development. Whether curved or straight, the whole trunk leans at a definite angle. The stronger roots grow out on the side, away from the angle of the trunk lean, to support the weight.

Cascade: The growing tip reaches below the base of a container. The trunk has a natural taper and gives the impression of the forces of nature pulling against the forces of gravity. Branches appear to be seeking the light. The winding main trunk is reminiscent of a stream running down the side of a mountain.

Semi-cascade: The tip projects over the rim of the container, but does not drop below its base. The style occurs in nature when trees grow on cliffs or overhang water. The angle of the trunk is not precise, as long as the effect is strongly horizontal. Any exposed roots should balance the trunk.


You don’t need to be an expert or have any formal training to try your hand at bonsai.
The Mid-Missouri Bonsai Society, which has been in Columbia almost two years, has members with more than 25 years of experience as well as those who have just started working on their first bonsai.
Club president Jerry Antel and member Lee Snyder started the group with about 10 members. Membership has since grown to 26. Members range in age from early 20s to 80s.
“We have a mix of people, which is good,” Antel said.
Although the group has some members who have just started with their first bonsai, beginners are able to receive guidance from Antel, Snyder and some of the more experienced members, said Susan Ferber, the club’s secretary.
Ferber became interested in bonsai in college.
“I remember being taken by how beautiful they were,” said Ferber. “They were so peaceful and calming.”
Twelve years later, Ferber still has a passion for bonsai. She said she had always been interested in Japanese art and culture and finds working with bonsai incredibly relaxing.
Bonsai, which literally means “tree in a pot,” originated in China around 200 A.D., when trees were planted in pots for aesthetic purposes. The art form eventually shifted to Japan where the craft was developed and perfected. The trees were shaped to mimic trees in nature and
give the appearance of age. Many bonsai trees have lived for hundreds of years.
“There’s nothing you do that matches the satisfaction in seeing a tree change from year to year,” Ferber said.
Ferber’s bonsai garden has about 10 trees in addition to 20 or so trees she calls “works in progress.” Her oldest tree is 16 years old, and she has cared for it for the past 12 years.
Club member Kim Beasley said she considers bonsai an expression of art.
“I like that they mimic nature, but you can control it with one small tree in one small pot,” she said.
Beasley, a potter, also makes custom pots for her trees and has been selling her work since 1997. Her handmade work can be found at Orchids and Art on Forum Boulevard.
Beasley has been working with bonsai for nine years and has nearly 120 trees, most of which are in her greenhouse in Rocheport. She tends to her trees daily, making sure they have adequate sunlight and water and getting rid of any dead material.
According to Antel, the Missouri climate is relatively good for bonsai, but it can be done just about anywhere as long as you care for the plants properly.
He suggested using trees such as junipers and pine trees that are acclimated to the Midwest climate.
“It’s best to use native plants, because their chances of surviving are better,” said Antel.
To take up a bonsai hobby, you don’t necessarily need to spend a lot of money, although you can.
Antel said the club recently held a workshop where members were able to purchase a tree and a pot for $30. He said that trees and pots can sometimes cost hundreds of dollars. He also said it’s important to have tools such as horticultural scissors and branch cutters, which range in price depending on quality.
The Mid-Missouri Bonsai Society meets once a month, but members often meet at additional times throughout the month for events such as garden shows and tours of members’ gardens. At the regular meetings, members discuss different topics such as tools and their maintenance, potting and repotting of plants and winter care. Often, members have the chance to bring in trees of their own to work with during demonstrations and are also given the chance show off their works to other members.
—For more information about the Mid-Missouri Bonsai Society, contact Jerry Antel 234-1530 of beadsandbonsai@aol.com

 

 

03 May 2005

Bonsai Experts To Visit

THREE of the State's leading bonsai enthusiasts will head a two day workshop in Taree this weekend.
In a rare coup, the Taree RSL and Golf Punjing Bonsai Club has secured the services of Jan Briggs, Ric Roberts and Brenda Parker as special guests, to demonstrate and answer questions on all aspects of the art.
Jan Briggs has been practising bonsai for over 35 years and is secretary of both Illawarra Bonsai Society and the Bonsai Federation of Australia.
She has studied with many Australian and overseas teachers, attended all the major conventions and seminars in Australia, and given many demonstrations to clubs and community groups.
Her particular interest is growing natives as bonsai, as well as pines and junipers, saikei (landscapes) and suiseki (the Japanese art of stone appreciation),
Ric Roberts has a background as an artist/designer and has been involved in bonsai for 30 years.
He is the author of many articles for 'Bonsai Down Under' magazine and has travelled overseas to bonsai conferences and visited the collections of many contemporary bonsai masters.
Brenda Parker is the president of Illawarra Bonsai Society, inheriting her passion for gardening from her mother, which has since developed into a passion for bonsai. The favourite trees in her collection are azaleas, figs and privets.
The visiting trio will lead workshops on Saturday, the first day of the two-day Taree demonstration, to be held in the RSL and Golf Club's Casuarina Room.
Doors will open at 10am Saturday and 11am Sunday, and the public is invited to attend - either to listen to the speakers and learn about bonsai, or just to admire the collected work of the Taree club members and visitors.
Taree club has operated since 1996 (its name means ‘little tree') and members meet on the third Sunday of every month at 1pm.
They take plants along to the meetings and work on them, sharing experiences ideas and tips such as how and when to prune and fertilise.
Regular outings are held to Sydney and to shows in Sydney, Newcastle and Gosford.
The club's 26 members currently are spread across the Manning and Great Lakes areas, including Lansdowne, Wingham and Forster-Tuncurry.
New members are always made most welcome, and beginners are assured of plenty of help and support from the more experienced.
Anyone needing more information about either this weekend's workshop, or club activities, is invited to contact the president, Gordon Pope, on 6551 0198.

 

 

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